NEW LOCATION!

  I've moved! I am no longer in the South/Midwest, but in the Pacific Northwest. Not only am I living closer to my family, but I'm living where it's "wool weather" most of the year. In fact, I can hear the roar of raindrops on my roof as I write this. To top off my move, I've decided to move my blog over to Wordpress, too.  So, for future posts - that I promise will be more frequent - go to www.wordpress.com. The blog is titled; Penelopes Crochet. 
Happy Trails
Suzanne

Child's Crocheted Bonnet with Star Crown

Here is a pattern I found in the online antique pattern library (http://www.antiquepattern.org/).
It's cute, but I can't show you because this dratted blog won't let me upload the pic. If you want to see it, contact me and I'll email it to you.  It was originally published in "Needlecraft" Vol. VIII, March 1916. The author of the pattern is Mrs. W. C. Hege. Okay, here's the pattern, re-typed here:

When crochet - silk or silk-finished crochet-cotton is used, a cap made by the following directions will fit a child from six months to one year old. No. 1 or No. 15 mercerized crochet cotton threads will, of course, give a larger bonnet - as the model. About two hundred and seventy yards of thread are required. Many crocheters make the mistake of using a much larger hook than necessary for pretty, even work; I use the same needle for the sizes of thread stated as for much finer numbers. Of course, the work must not be too tight.

Make a chain of 10 stitches, join.
1.  Chain 5, 20 roll-stitches (of 21 overs) in ring, join to top of 5 chain.
2.  Chain 4, a treble in space between chain and 1st roll-stitch, *chain 1, a treble between next 2 roll-stitches, chain 1, a treble in same place, chain 1, a bean-stitch in next space, chain 2, a bean-stitch in next space, chain 1, 2 trebles with 1 chain between in next space; repeat from * around, joining last 1 chain to 3d of 4 ch. The bean-stitch is made thus: (Thread over, insert hook in space, draw thread through to length of a treble) 8 times, over and draw through all the loops at once, over and draw through the stitch remaining, tightly, to close the cluster.
3.  Chain 4, (treble in next space, chain 1) 3 times, treble in same space with last treble, * chain 1, 2 bean stitches, with 2 chain between, under 2 chain between the 2 bean-stitches of last row, chain 1, 2 trebles with 1 chain between in 1st space, (chain 1, treble in next space) 4 times, chain 1, treble in same space; repeat around, ending with chain 1, 2 trebles with 1 chain between in space, chain 1, join to 3rd of 4 chain.
4.  Chain 1, (treble in next space, chain 1) 4 times, treble in same space, * chain 1, 2 bean-stitches, separated by 2 chain, between 2 bean-stitches of last row, chain 1, 2 trebles with 1 chain between in space following, (chain 1, treble in next space) 7 times, chain 1, treble in same space, repeat from * around, ending with chain 1, 2 trebles with 1 chain between in space, (chain 1, treble in next space) twice, chain 1, join to 3d of 4 chain.
5.  Chain 4, (treble in next space, chain 1) 6 times, * 2 bean stitches separated by 2 chain, between 2 bean stitches of last row, (chain 1, treble in space) 11 times; repeat around, ending with (chain 1, treble in space) 5 times, chain 1, join to 3d of 4 chain.
6.   Chain 4, (a treble in space, chain 1), 6 times, chain 1, treble in same space, * chain 1, 2 bean-stitches, as before, chain 1, 2 trebles with 1 chain between in `1st space, (chain 1, treble in next space) 11 times, chain 1, treble in same space; repeat around, ending with chain 1, 2 trebles with 1 chain between in 1st space; (chain 1, treble in next space) 4 times, chain 1, join to 3d of 4 chain. There should be 15 spaces between the bean-stitches.
7.  Chain 4, (treble in next space, chain 1) 6 times, * bean-stitch in next space, chain 5, treble under 2 chain between bean-stitches, chain 5, bean-stitch in next space, (chain 1, treble in next space) 13 times, chain 1, repeat around, ending with (chain 1, treble in space) 6 times, chain 1, join to 3d of 4 chain.
8.  Same as last row, decreasing trebles between bean-stitches by 2, and between points (chain 6, fasten in center of 5 chain, chain 4, fasten in same place of a picot) twice, chain 6, bean-stitch in space, and continue around.
9.  Same as last row, decreasing to 8 trebles by missing a space each side, and making 4 loops between points.
10.  Five trebles (always with 1 chain between) between bean-stitches, 5 loops between points.
11.  Two trebles between bean-stitches, 6 loops between points.
12.  Slip back to space between 2 trebles, 1 bean-stitch in space, 7 loops between points; repeat, joining last loop to top of bean stitch.
13.  Picot (that is, chain 4, fasten), and continue with the loops all around, as before, always making a picot where each loop is fastened. Every 6th loop is fastened in top of bean-stitch, missing the loop each side of the latter in last row.
14.  All loops to within 7 loops of end, turn, leaving these loops for back of neck.
15. 16.  Chain 6, fasten in loop, picot; repeat across front, turn.
17.  Chain 8, treble in 1st loop, * chain 6, treble in next loop; repeat across, turn.
18.  Eight roll-stitches in top of treble, a double in next treble; repeat across, making 11 shells, turn.
19.  Chain 11, fasten in top of shell, * chain 6, a double treble between shells, chain 6, fasten in top of shell; repeat across, ending with double treble at end of last shell.
20.  Chain 7, fasten in 4th stitch for a picot, chain 3, fasten in same place, * chain 3, fasten under 6 chain, chain 3, a treble in double at top of shell, chain 3, fasten in top of treble, chain 4, fasten in same place, chain 3, fasten in same place, repeat from * making the last treble in 6th stitch of 11 chain, 2 picots in top of the treble; omit last picot and 3 chain, turn.
21.  Chain 2, fasten in top of picot, * chain 6, fasten in top of picot of 4 chain; repeat across, turn.
22.  Shell of 8 roll stitches in double, fasten in in next double; repeat across, turn.
23.  Like 10th row.
24.  Like 20th row across, adding the 3d picot and 3 chain, fasten under 11 chain, chain 3, treble under same chain, 3 picots in top of treble, as before, chain 3, fasten in double with 2 picots at end of 20th row, chain 3, treble under treble at end of same row, 3 picots (always, in top of treble), chain 3, fasten under next chain, chain 3, treble at end of shell, 3 picots, chain 3, fasten under next chain, and continue in this way around the neck to place where the row started. There should be 13 triple picots around neck and 23 across the front of bonnet.
25.  Like 21st row from *; join last 6 chain where 1st started, at corner.
26.  Chain 6, fasten in next double (or slip along the chain to this double), shell of 8 roll-stitches in next double, fasten in next, repeat across front, making a shell of 12 roll-stitches in corner double, 6 shells of 8 roll-stitches around the neck, and again 12 roll-stitches at corner, fastening off in the double where the row started.
Finish with rosettes and ties of mull or ribbon. For winter-wear the bonnet may be lined with fine cashmere, silk, or may have a lining of plain trebles crocheted to fit, this to be caught in with stitches that may be easily removed when the lining requires cleansing.

Crochetville

I just discovered a wonderful/amazing/fantabulous crochet website called Crochetville.  It's here:  http://www.crochetville.org.  They have several great forums, crochet pattern/book/kits reviews, and online classes. It's smaller than Ravelry, and has a more 'friendly neighbor' feel. They also have a forum for independent crochet businesses. You can promote your shop - within their parameters, and they have advertising available at a modest price. There's also a forum for blogs like this one. Yay!

   I hope you check it out!

Back To School

With temperatures over 100 degrees here in the Midwest, it's hard to think about the Fall. But I know it will be here before I know it, no matter what the temp is right now. So, here for your perusal, is a new twist on an old idea - a lunch tote. It uses tapestry crochet so it is much thicker than normal crocheting. It will insulate your noon-time munchies with yarn rather than high-tech fabric. This one is made of Red Heart worsted (4), and takes less than a week of evenings to make. You can order the pattern at my shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/penelopescrochet.

Crochet Lace Edgings

Happy New Year! I'm starting off the new year with new patterns in my Etsy shop just in time for bath and linen "white sales". Know someone who is getting married and want to give them that extra special gift? Why not sew some hand made crochet lace edgings on towels or sheets? These lace patterns will have suggestions for thread and uses. The first is a Tufted Vandyke edging from Weldon's (1893) I first used this about 20 years ago on a beach towel. Got lots of compliments, and the terry cloth wore out before the lace did. I'll be posting more weekly - maybe even daily.

One thing to keep in mind about these antique laces. There were three main types. One was a shawl edging that was meant to be worked in the round. These are great for pillowcases, but if you want to put them on something flat - like a towel - you will need to cut the thread at the end of each row and start again at the beginning instead of turning.

The second type was an edging that was worked short-wise, with a "header" added after the piece was finished. This kind is good for all sorts of things, and doesn't take much "crochet math" to figure out how many stitches your foundation chain should have. Each row worked adds to its length, so you decide when it's done.

The third type was an edging that was lengthwise, but turned at the end of every row. You need to calculate ahead of time how long you want your edging to be, work up a swatch to get your gauge, then do some "crochet math". The Tufted Vandyke pattern is this type.

The tufted Vandyke pattern has all the math done for you to make a hand towel. In addition, I've given instructions for how to compute the stitches for a foundation chain that would work for a bath towel. It uses Cebelia #10 and a #6 steel crochet hook. The Cebelia is a sturdy thread with a nice sheen to it. But don't limit yourself to just hand towels. This would make a nice lace border for a tunic - say with #20 thread, or you could incorporate it into a handbag. The great thing about crochet laces is they inspire you to be creative!

If you would like to purchase the pattern for the lace shown, go to etsy.com/penelopescrochet. Happy Hooking!

Springtime Victorian Shawl

Spring is here! I've been working hard to design and write some crochet patterns that are fitting for the season, and this is the first. I added this to my Etsy shop Sunday (http://penelopescrochet.etsy.com). Spring time shawl is adapted from a pattern in Weldon's Practical Crochet. The problem with these old patterns, is that they are not very exact. It begins: "commence with a chain as long as desired". The tricky part is that the border has a repeating pattern that requires a certain amount of stitches. So, I guess every Victorian was well-versed in 'Crochet Math'. It took me a while to figure it out, but I finally did it. So now that this little Victorian gem is re-written, it is as easy as pie to work, and almost as fast! For a limited time I'm offering this at an introductory price. Half off.

Reading and Working Victorian Patterns: The Stitches

So, you've bought the Victorian pattern online, you've looked at yarns and threads and you're ready! But when you look at that ages-old pattern, it's like a different language! Maybe I can help.
First, let's remember where these patterns were written. They weren't written in the U.S. because 'Victorian' is basically an English era - not an American one. We were still out playing Cowboys and Indians or Little House on the Prairie. In England there is a different system for stitches than the one used here in the U.S. So, here are the equivalents:
English - American
Chain - Chain
Single Crochet - Slip Stitch
Double Crochet - Single Crochet
Treble Stitch - Double Crochet
Double Treble -Triple Crochet

There's lots more to deciphering Victorian patterns, but getting the stitches right is a big part of it. Now, lets use our new knowledge on this Victorian shawl pattern. I'll post an image of it, but also type it out since the image is blurry. It says to use a single Berlin wool - which is fingering or sock weight yarn. It also says to use a size 9 hook. I think that might be about a size 'D' American hook. Since it's a shawl, gauge is not important, so I would use the size hook that gives the nicest looking stitches - size 'C' for tighter work and size 'E' for looser work.

So now I'm going to throw you in to the deep end of the pool and give you the pattern without explaining it to death. Questions? Comments? Please be patient. I'll have a 'deciphered' version available free on my Winkelf shop very soon! http://penelopescrochet.winkelf.com


To be worked with single Berlin wool or a fine make of fingering yarn, as preferred. Bone crochet needle, No. 9. Commence with a chain sufficient for the width of the shawl; turn, work 1 treble in the third chain from the needle, * 1 chain, miss on stitch of the foundation, 1 treble in the next, and repeat fronm * to the end of the row. 2nd Row - 2 chain to turn, 1 treble under the first one chain, 1 chain, 1 treble under the next one chain, and repeat, the last treble stitch at the end of the row is to be worked upon the chain that turned. Work the entire centre of the shawl the same as the second row, keeping the same number of treble stitches in every row. For the Border. 1st Row - Work 6 treble at the corner, `1 chain and 1 treble alternately, the same as the centre of the shawl along the side, and repeat. 2nd Row - 6 treble between the third and fourth treble stitches of last row at the corner, 1 chain, and 1 treble alternately along the side, and repeat. 3rd Row - 6 treble between the second and third treble stitches at the corner, 1 chain, 6 treble between the 4th and 5th trebles, * 1 chain, miss the next one chain hole, 1 treble in the next, 1 chain, 1 treble in the next, 1 chain, miss the next chain hole, 6 treble in the next, and repeat from * to the corner, where again increase. 4th Row - 6 treble between the third and fourth treble stitches in the first group at the corner, 1 chain, 6 treble under the one chain, 1 chain, 6 treble between the third and fourth trebles of the second group at the corner, * 1 chain, 1 treble on the treble of last row, 1 chain, 1 treble on the next treble of last row, 1 chain, 6 treble between the third and fourth treble stitches of the group, and repeat from * to the corner, where again increase. Work 6 more rows of bordering in the same way as the last row, only increasing to turn the corner as shown in the illustration. 11th Row - 1 double crochet under the chain stitch between the two treble stitches, 7 chain, *wool over the needle, insert the hook in the fourth chain from the needle, and draw the wool loosely through, repeat from * seven times, wool over the needle, and draw through all the stitches on the needle, 1 single crochet in the next stitch of the chain to secure the ball, 2 chain, 1 double crochet between the third and fourth treble stitches of the group, 7 chain, make another ball, 2 chain, and repeat.