Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Springtime Victorian Shawl


Spring is here! I've been working hard to design and write some crochet patterns that are fitting for the season, and this is the first. I added this to my Etsy shop Sunday (http://penelopescrochet.etsy.com). Spring time shawl is adapted from a pattern in Weldon's Practical Crochet. The problem with these old patterns, is that they are not very exact. It begins: "commence with a chain as long as desired". The tricky part is that the border has a repeating pattern that requires a certain amount of stitches. So, I guess every Victorian was well-versed in 'Crochet Math'. It took me a while to figure it out, but I finally did it. So now that this little Victorian gem is re-written, it is as easy as pie to work, and almost as fast! For a limited time I'm offering this at an introductory price. Half off.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Reading and Working Victorian Patterns: The Stitches

So, you've bought the Victorian pattern online, you've looked at yarns and threads and you're ready! But when you look at that ages-old pattern, it's like a different language! Maybe I can help.
First, let's remember where these patterns were written. They weren't written in the U.S. because 'Victorian' is basically an English era - not an American one. We were still out playing Cowboys and Indians or Little House on the Prairie. In England there is a different system for stitches than the one used here in the U.S. So, here are the equivalents:
English - American
Chain - Chain
Single Crochet - Slip Stitch
Double Crochet - Single Crochet
Treble Stitch - Double Crochet
Double Treble -Triple Crochet

There's lots more to deciphering Victorian patterns, but getting the stitches right is a big part of it. Now, lets use our new knowledge on this Victorian shawl pattern. I'll post an image of it, but also type it out since the image is blurry. It says to use a single Berlin wool - which is fingering or sock weight yarn. It also says to use a size 9 hook. I think that might be about a size 'D' American hook. Since it's a shawl, gauge is not important, so I would use the size hook that gives the nicest looking stitches - size 'C' for tighter work and size 'E' for looser work.

So now I'm going to throw you in to the deep end of the pool and give you the pattern without explaining it to death. Questions? Comments? Please be patient. I'll have a 'deciphered' version available free on my Winkelf shop very soon! http://penelopescrochet.winkelf.com


To be worked with single Berlin wool or a fine make of fingering yarn, as preferred. Bone crochet needle, No. 9. Commence with a chain sufficient for the width of the shawl; turn, work 1 treble in the third chain from the needle, * 1 chain, miss on stitch of the foundation, 1 treble in the next, and repeat fronm * to the end of the row. 2nd Row - 2 chain to turn, 1 treble under the first one chain, 1 chain, 1 treble under the next one chain, and repeat, the last treble stitch at the end of the row is to be worked upon the chain that turned. Work the entire centre of the shawl the same as the second row, keeping the same number of treble stitches in every row. For the Border. 1st Row - Work 6 treble at the corner, `1 chain and 1 treble alternately, the same as the centre of the shawl along the side, and repeat. 2nd Row - 6 treble between the third and fourth treble stitches of last row at the corner, 1 chain, and 1 treble alternately along the side, and repeat. 3rd Row - 6 treble between the second and third treble stitches at the corner, 1 chain, 6 treble between the 4th and 5th trebles, * 1 chain, miss the next one chain hole, 1 treble in the next, 1 chain, 1 treble in the next, 1 chain, miss the next chain hole, 6 treble in the next, and repeat from * to the corner, where again increase. 4th Row - 6 treble between the third and fourth treble stitches in the first group at the corner, 1 chain, 6 treble under the one chain, 1 chain, 6 treble between the third and fourth trebles of the second group at the corner, * 1 chain, 1 treble on the treble of last row, 1 chain, 1 treble on the next treble of last row, 1 chain, 6 treble between the third and fourth treble stitches of the group, and repeat from * to the corner, where again increase. Work 6 more rows of bordering in the same way as the last row, only increasing to turn the corner as shown in the illustration. 11th Row - 1 double crochet under the chain stitch between the two treble stitches, 7 chain, *wool over the needle, insert the hook in the fourth chain from the needle, and draw the wool loosely through, repeat from * seven times, wool over the needle, and draw through all the stitches on the needle, 1 single crochet in the next stitch of the chain to secure the ball, 2 chain, 1 double crochet between the third and fourth treble stitches of the group, 7 chain, make another ball, 2 chain, and repeat.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Crocheting with Bamboo

When I saw bamboo yarn a few years ago at the Black Sheep Gathering in Eugene, I though to myself, 'that seems a bit silly, what will they think of next'. But I revised my thinking after working with it. Knitters may have a hard time with it because the yarn isn't very strong. Of course, crocheters never have this problem since crochet work is way stronger than knitted work. Knitting needles may also split the yarn, making it less strong - but crochet hooks may not do that. Since it's antibacterial, it is great for crocheted socks and baby things. It's soft, lustrous, and easy to work with. I have just discovered Aunt Lydia's Bamboo Crochet Thread. I crocheted a pair of baby socks with it and was very pleased! It's even inspired me to write some crochet sock patterns using this thread (they're not finished, though). I'm still not sure about the yarn, though. I don't like putting a lot of work into a project only to have it fall apart or wonky when I wash it. But I love this thread!
For more info on bamboo yarn, check out http://knitting.about.com/od/yarn/a/bamboo_yarn.htm